Mill woven vs. Handwoven designer scarves: What is the Difference?

Scarves may look simple at first glance. While both mill woven and handwoven designer scarves offer warmth and flair, the differences in their production methods lead to unique qualities. As a handweaver based in the UK, I know the work of many UK-based handweavers. Each has their own style and signature weaves, yet the same cannot be said for most mill woven accessories.

If you have ever wondered why some scarves are labelled handwoven while others are mill woven, here is a closer look. We will explore the distinctions between these two types of scarves and highlight why handwoven scarves are regarded as the more luxurious option for a special gift.

Understanding Mill Woven Scarves

Mill woven scarves are created on a large scale using industrial machines. This process allows for quick production and consistency in design. As a result, these scarves are widely available and often budget-friendly. The weaving process typically involves weaving threads together in a systematic style, resulting in a uniform look and feel.

While mill woven scarves can be stylish, they often lack the unique character found in handwoven pieces. The mass production process leads to scarves that are likely to appear identical. In some cases, the materials used to weave mill woven scarves utilise synthetic fibres. While synthetic options might be easier to care for, they usually lack the luxurious feel and warmth that natural fibres deliver.

Handwoven Designer Scarves

Handwoven scarves are crafted by skilled weavers who devote considerable time and attention to every piece. Each scarf is the result of many hours of meticulous design and manual work. This traditional weaving process uses a handweaving loom, allowing for intricate patterns and textures that are hard to duplicate in a factory setting. Slight variations in weave and tension give each piece its own unique character—no two are exactly alike. Handweaving is more than just a technique; each handwoven scarf narrates a story that reflects the weaver's unique style.

Six Key Differences Between Handwoven and Mill Woven Scarves

1. The Selvedge

The finished edge of a woven fabric is one of the clearest giveaways when telling a handwoven scarf from a mill woven one. The selvedge edge of the fabric runs parallel to the warp. In a handwoven scarf, the selvedge is created as part of the weaving process itself. The weft thread loops naturally around the edge of the warp, forming a continuous and integral finish. This creates a beautifully strong and neat edge without the need for hemming.

In the image below, you can see that the deflected doubleweave scarf has a blue edge created by taking the dark blue weft threads to each of the selvedge edges.

In a mill woven scarf, the fabric is often woven in large sheets and then cut down into individual pieces. This means that the edges are not the natural fabric selvedge. To prevent fraying, these edges are often hemmed, overlocked, or bound.

Again, while the scarf shown below is handwoven, it was woven as a wide piece of cloth, with each width then cut into three scarves. If you focus on the edge of the scarf, you can see a frayed edge that has been sewn to prevent further fraying. This is common in mill woven scarves and less common in handwoven scarves.

2. The Story Behind the Scarf

When you buy a mill woven scarf, you are purchasing a product of modern efficiency and textile technology. When you choose a handwoven scarf, you are supporting artisanal traditions, small-scale craftsmanship, and often sustainable practices.

3. Design and Creativity

Mill woven scarves often adhere to the latest trends, resulting in items that feel more generic and standard. What sets handwoven scarves apart is their uniqueness. Each piece is a distinctive creation that reflects the weaver's style and influences. These one-of-a-kind scarves allow the wearer to share the story of each piece, showcasing their creativity.

Occasionally, a weaver may incorporate traditional patterns, hand-dyed yarns, or spontaneous design decisions during the weaving process. In my work, I usually weave a warp of around 10m. I often vary the weft yarn along the warp or even the woven design itself to create a collection of three scarves and four snoods. The image below shows one such collection of pink handwoven scarves and snoods, with each piece being totally unique.

4. Quality of Materials

A major distinction between mill woven and handwoven scarves is often the quality of materials used. Handweavers take great care in selecting their yarns, with handwoven scarves often made from premium, natural fibres such as silk, cashmere, or organic cotton. My weaving yarns of choice are either merino lambswool or organic cotton, both of which create luxury fabrics.

5. Cost and Value

Mill woven scarves are generally more affordable due to faster production and lower labour costs. Handwoven scarves usually carry a higher price tag, reflecting the hours of craftsmanship, their quality, and individuality. Investing in a handwoven scarf means obtaining a luxurious piece that is timeless in its style and likely to retain its appeal for decades.

6. Sustainability and Ethical Considerations

Today's consumers are more conscious of sustainability and ethical purchasing. Handwoven scarves are typically produced in small batches, contributing to less waste and reducing environmental impact. Many artisans prioritise sustainable practices, often using eco-friendly materials and techniques that respect the environment.

Understanding the Choice Between Mill Woven and Handwoven Scarves

The decision between mill woven and handwoven scarves is more than a matter of style; it reflects your values, the quality you desire, and the personal connection you wish to form. Handwoven scarves shine as luxurious statement pieces that embody the artistry and dedication of a skilled weaver.

While mill woven scarves can serve their practical purpose, they often lack the richness and character that make handwoven options genuinely special. For anyone looking for a luxurious accessory that tells a story and embodies fine craftsmanship, a handwoven scarf is undeniably the superior choice.

Both mill woven and handwoven scarves have their place. If you value precision, affordability, and consistency, mill woven pieces are a great choice. If you appreciate artistry, uniqueness, and a deeper connection to tradition, a handwoven scarf might be the one for you. Either way, knowing the difference helps you make a conscious choice the next time you wrap a scarf around your shoulders or are looking to purchase a very special gift.

My handwoven scarves, snoods, and accessories are available for purchase in my website shop for UK delivery.

Interested in learning to weave? Then my workshop page has all the details. Click here for details of scarf weaving workshops.

If you are interested in knowing what is on the loom, off the loom, and workshop dates, then do sign up to receive my weaving news emails by clicking here.